Medieval Fort in Blagaj (Stjepan Grad), Blagaj Tekija & Vrelo Bune

We visited the Old Blagaj Fort high up above Vrelo Bune cave and river mouth about 310 meters above sea level. Long ago the Illyrians lived there and had settlements around the area and fortified it, until the Romans took over and for each change in regime the fort was modified and expanded. Later in the Kingdom of Bosnia it was the one of the main fortifications in Herzegovina, then called Zahumlje after a mountain there called Hum. The name Herzegovina comes from the duke Stjepan Vukčić Kosača who titled himself herzog (ruler) and also named the fort Stjepan grad. Later on when the Ottomans invaded and conquered Bosnia the fort was repaired and in service until 1835, but had long before that lost its significance as Mostar had taken that role in the region.

Update: Here’s a new video and some new photos from a hike up to the fort in early June 2020.

This whole are is a beautiful visit and so close to Mostar that you don’t want to miss it. The taxi fare is cheap and takes about 15-20 minutes from central Mostar. I really recommend this to anyone who’s into experiencing the medieval and untouched feeling that sort of still lingers in the area.

Sanjin and Florens on Old Blagaj Fort, Stjepan Grad. Photo: Lisa Sinclair.

Florens & Sanjin at Stjepan Grad.
Almost six years later in the same spot!

Sanjin and Florens on Old Blagaj Fort, Stjepan Grad. Photo: Sanjin Đumišić. Sanjin and Florens on Old Blagaj Fort, Stjepan Grad. Photo: Lisa Sinclair.

Stjepan Grad, Blagaj. Photo: Sanjin Đumišić.

Stjepan Grad, Blagaj. Photo: Sanjin Đumišić.

Old Blagaj Fort, Stjepan Grad. Photo: Sanjin Đumišić. Old Blagaj Fort, Stjepan Grad. Photo: Sanjin Đumišić. Old Blagaj Fort, Stjepan Grad. Photo: Sanjin Đumišić. Old Blagaj Fort, Stjepan Grad. Photo: Sanjin Đumišić. Old Blagaj Fort, Stjepan Grad. Photo: Sanjin Đumišić. Old Blagaj Fort, Stjepan Grad. Photo: Sanjin Đumišić.

Go there!

Here’s a map and photos that will guide you right. It isn’t that blatant as to where the serpentine path up to the fort begins and there’s a straight and very steep path up to the mountain that is not recommended (before the real path starts). Once you’re on track it’s an easy path up to the fort, but be careful as the path is loose and steep if you fall down – and always go with someone if anything should happen.

Footpath to Old Blagaj Fort, Stjepan Grad. Footpath to Old Blagaj Fort, Stjepan Grad. Footpath to Old Blagaj Fort, Stjepan Grad. Footpath to Old Blagaj Fort, Stjepan Grad. Photo: Sanjin Đumišić.Old Blagaj Fort, Stjepan Grad. Photo: Sanjin Đumišić.

Some older photos, circa 1984

Fortress Stjepan Grad in Blagaj. Fortress Stjepan Grad in Blagaj. Fortress Stjepan Grad in Blagaj.

Vrelo Bune & Blagaj Tekke

Below the fort under the vertical mountain drop lies the cave where the river Buna start, Vrelo Bune. Here you’ll enjoy the peaceful ambient, eat good food and walk inside the 15th century Sufi monastery, Blagaj Tekke – and on the other side of Buna there are restaurant. We had a great meal there after the hike up and down from the fort. One thing though, I’m glad it was the end of October and not the tourist season, it really makes the difference to the experience, as you’ll get much less of a crowd and more of the peaceful ambient.

Sanjin and Florens at Vrelo Bune. Photo: Lisa Sinclair.Blagaj Tekke, Dervish house. Photo: Sanjin Đumišić.Blagaj Tekke, Dervish house. Photo: Sanjin Đumišić.Vrelo Bune in Blagaj. Photo: Sanjin Đumišić.Vrelo Bune restaurant. Photo: Sanjin Đumišić. Vrelo Bune restaurant. Photo: Sanjin Đumišić.

Update: It’s cozy on a fine winter day too. Here’s a from a visit year later, in December.

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4 Comments
  • Alison McKenna
    April 5, 2016

    Oh my goodness, what a ‘state of the art’ Wow! Wow! blog. I am researching Bosnia for my very busy son who will be visiting there soon. And serendipity .. up came your site with all its wonderful material. You are truly marvelous to be sharing such helpful information, insight and imagery ~ thank you. Happy, exciting journeys always for the three of you.

    • Sanjin Đumišić
      April 5, 2016

      Thank you Alison for the very kind words! I’m glad it’s of some help and your son should feel free to explore whatever he wants there, as most of the places are very close to each other. I wish him a pleasant first visit to Bosnia & Herzegovina!

      /All the best